Tag Archives: ships

Time Traveling in Denmark: Roskilde and Lejre

A 30 minute train from Copenhagen brings you to the quite town of Roskilde. It is easy enough to stay at your accommodation in the city and make the day trip, however we found that if we did the trip again, we would have stayed at the Danhostel in Roskide and taken a day trip to Copenhagen. The hostel, which was more of a hotel, is located about a hundred meters from the Viking Maritime Museum. The museum focuses on recreation archaeology, putting the theories about how the ancient mariners ‘did it’ to the test. for 100 danish Krona extra to the Museum ticket you can go for a sail around the fjord in a replica of one of the viking ships that they had discovered at the bottom of the fjord as a defence.

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The 5 ships that were discovered had been purposely sunk, theoretically to block the deep and easy passages into the fjord, causing any ‘visitors’ (including attacking ships) to take a more risky route that would require the navigation of a local who knows the waters. The ships were brought up in the 1960’s as a large archaeological project, and were treated and now on display in the museum. (Free guided tours are available in English.) The manmade island where the viking ships sail from also hosts an open air style museum, with blacksmithing, rope making, and even the shipbuilding as in-situe recreation archaeology. In addition, if you want to get your hands dirty, you can chisel runes into a thors hammer pendant, or mint a coin in ‘ye olde’ way with a hammer and minting stamp.  if you want to join the kids table, they even have a wooden shield and sword.

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From Roskilde, taking a train to Lejre, and bus 233 from the station, you can visit ‘Land of Legends’, a open air museum dedicated to Denmarks’ history form the Stone age, through the Viking age, into the Iron and Middle Ages. The encourage getting your hands dirty and joining in the activities. learn to flake stones or make rope with the cave men, you can buy naturally died yarns from the weaver, or pots and mugs thrown by the potter. The park can be seen comfortably in 3-5 hours, longer if you participate in the settlements.

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Copenhagen

First impressions of Copenhagen, after having just left Stockholm, was a little underwhelming. Coming out of central station the litter and homeless that crowded the exit made us worried that we weren’t going to enjoy Copenhagen as much as Stockholm. Our hostel was only a few blocks away, but the feeling in the area was very different. The old buildings bright colours had faded but still looked cheerful, restaurants along the street situated couples and friends out for a night of good food and company. At dinner I ordered a beer, and mum (who doesn’t drink at all) had about half. Mum, who is allergic to additives to most alcoholic beverages, goes straight to headach and stuffy nose when drinking. I ordered a Erdinger Weissbrau, and it was great. One, amazing, additive free, glass of beer.

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The next day we wondered around the city, stopping at a small cafe on the edge of a park no larger than a one car garage and filled with character. After some chocolate croissants and a chai we continued to visit some of the iconic sites. The Little Mermaid statue, based on the fairy tale by Hans Christain Anderson, lays along a beautiful scenic walk, marked in most guidebooks and tourist maps.

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In the heart of the city, we walked along the canal that was lined with old ships and bright buildings. While wondering down random streets we came across a large square, and realised that the large building across from us must have been a government building and we arrived just in time to see the changing of the guard.

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Copenhagen has a lively bike culture. The bike lanes, as wide as a cars lane, are elevated from the street. Random bikes, unicycles, family bikes, and bikes with side cars. They were in all types and everywhere. While walking around I felt that I should have been listening to a Queen song.

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Copenhagen is a maze of wonderful scenes, and worth the time to explore.

If it’s Thursday, this must be Stockholm

We spent 2 nights in Stockholm so that we could spend the day at 2 of the iconic museums in the city, the Vasa museum, and the Skansen Open Air Museum.

The Vasa Museum houses the best preserved historic shipwreck, the Vasa, which sank not far from birth on its maiden voyage. The harbour, being low in salinity, doesn’t provide the habitat for wood eating creatures that would normally destroy the ships structure. The lack of organisms means that after 333 years the ship is so well preserved, the bones of the crew, fabric of their clothes, and items in their chests and barrels, were very well preserved. The museum displays these alongside the ship, including the recoverable skeletons laid out in a display with facial recreations to humanise them. The sculptures, still with detail adorn the ship, and the ship is 98% original from the 15th century ship.

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When entering the museum, there is an information rack with guidelines to download a free audio guide for the museum. English tours are every 30 minutes on the hour and half hour, and last 25 minutes. The exhibits are informative for adults, and interactive for the kids (or the kids within the adults.) The museum has 7 levels, with 3 housing exhibitions, 3 as galleries, and the main lobby/exit. I recommend planning 3-5 hours to looking around.

The Skansen Open Air Museum is a living museum, where buildings have been donated and kept running. Part living heritage, and part zoo, the museum covers how Swedes have lived since the Viking age, animals native to Scandinavia, and a slew of activities for all ages. In the center of the park, by a large red tower, is a restaurant/café with potato pancakes with a seafood salad (cream cheese with salmon and lobster,) I highly recommend it! It would be easy to spend a whole day wondering the park.

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Both of these museums are about a 20 minute walk from the STF skepsholmen and af Chapman, an older square rig ship that has been converted into a hostel. There are rooms available on the shore, and the bar on the deck of the Chapman is open to the public. (Check the board for specials and deals!)

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