As you can imagine, both as a photographer and an anthropologist, the idea of my first sighting of wild primates had me excited all last week. The previous week there had been a family of just under a dozen spotted in a tree of a lakeside parking lot. My co-worker who had seen the fuzzy gang offered to take me to the distant lake this last weekend, in hopes that the band would be visiting again. Sadly, as we pulled in there was no sign of the monkeys, nor did they show for the rest of the day. What we did see was an amazing change of color from the trees that surrounded the lake, the bright red, yellow and green of the trees, and the blue of the water and sky. Usui lake, which is located a short drive from Tomioka, is surrounded in postcard scenery and and historic culture. The old railroad that ran beside the lake has long since been deserted, and was converted into a walking trail. The long, dark, hand built tunnels echo with the shuffling feet, with the ash stained roof overhead as a reminder of its original use. Along the path is the large railroad bridge, and the final stop of the trail is the old station.

When leaving the trail, you pass a visitors center/shop on the main highway. the shop houses a small food court that offers a rice dish that is comprised of many of japans cuisine staples. From shiitake mushrooms, to Japanese pickles, to the hard boiled quails egg, the sensation can only be described as a rush of flavors. (You even get to keep the ceramic pottery rice-cooking bowl, stamped with the station name in Kanji, when you are finished.)

After lunch, we ventured to some of the shrines, where my co-worker (and acting guide) taught me some of the customs of shrine etiquette, explained the telepathic relationship of the A-Um (‘ah-oom’, the two statues that protect the shrine. The open mouthed ‘A’ statue and the closed mouthed ‘Um’ ‘don’t need to speak to communicate. They understand each other.’) By the entrance to the shrine, are three large cedars that are designated a ‘power center’. wrapped around the trees was a cord with strips of paper attached. Those pieces of paper are fortunes, and when you are done reading your fortune, you tie it onto the cord.

Each temple has different gods that it is dedicated to, and since we were there, I was taught how to pray to the gods of health and well-being. At the entrance to the shrine, there is a wash basin, where you wash your hands and rinse out your mouth before approaching the shrine. standing in front of the shrine, you bow twice, clap your hands twice, silently say your prayer, then bow a last time.

At the last shrine we visited, there was a small girl dressed in a Kimono getting her photo taken in front of the shrine. My co-worker explained that there is a celebration that is held here for girls who are 3 and 7, and boys who are 5, to get dressed up and visit as many shrines as they can and take a photo.