Tag Archives: backpacking

How I do it: More backpacking tips

I’m thinking back to this time last year, when I was packing up my apartment and how excited I was to be one step closer to my adventurous life. I’m not wealthy, didn’t have much in the way to sell, and was giving away my furniture just to get it out before my move out deadline. Yeah, I had enough to get started on the trip, but little idea what the whole trip would ultimately entail. Ive had my plans crumble underneath me, and long arranged plans work out beautifully. What made one work and the other collapse? Not the wildest idea, but that’s the beauty of it. Whether I have plans work out so perfectly or fall apart horribly, I have had people in my life that have shared that with. This last year I have seen people from my past that I didn’t know if I was going to see again, some introduced me more amazing people, others have offered closure and I probably wont see them again. But this is where I offer my first Grand Adventure Words of Advice;

What goes around comes around.

Be it Karma, ‘do unto others’, or any other dogma of the same rule, the world is a small place. I have seen first hand karma come back to people who have wronged (and oh, does it taste so sweet. Face it, you know someone you would love karma to come back to.) I’ve also witnessed the good, friends meeting again for the first time in years (and have experienced this a few times), or someone housing me finds money on the ground. (personally, I find this as the universe keeping everything in balance.)

Keep your friends close, and your enemies as far away as you can.

This doesn’t always have to be in the physical sense. No matter where you are, or how far or close someone is, if they do nothing but bring you down, keep them out of your life. This may sound like a big I-never-want-to-speak-to-you-again drama, but its really a lot simpler than you would imagine. Simply live your life. Find the beauty in the people you meet along the way, and if they are really your friend, no amount of time and space will change that. They are the ones that start the Facebook conversation with “where are you now?” and “How do you like it in…?” and “I’m so jealous!”, even after those few months that you havn’t been talking (which really just feels like a few days at most) you pick up right were you left off. They are the ones I offer the couch to crash on in Colorado, or arrange for a drink the next time we meet up (even though neither of us know when or where that may be.) This may not be everyone you meet, but the ones who stick are the ones who count.

There is a difference between packing light and packing efficiently.

I don’t mean the rolling clothes and shoving undies in shoes, (which believe me, it really does save space.) I am talking about having what you need more than what you want. I have gone through my bags a couple times now sending home boxes of clothes and devices that I discovered I really didn’t need. With wither approaching here in the southern hemisphere, there really is only so much I am willing to part with, but find that the concept of ‘light layers’ is the way to go. Sub-note: Forgo the souvenirs. It is way better for you to get a camera, and learn how to get good photos. I have seen some amazing GoPro videos, and have an olypus tough which is the most durable little camera. (Ive taken it exploring in caves, to the great barrier reef, and dropped it off a cliff in Ireland. It still goes strong) I also shoot with a DSLR Nikon, but this is usually the EXPENSIVE option. I’ve had a love of photography since I was 13, and decided it was worth it to me. (Coming soon, excerpt from my travel photography how-to book I am writing.)

There will be days you stress out. Ride them out.

Almost every backpacker I have met has had at least one day when they freak out. Be it strapped on cash, flight cancelled, something stolen, its happened before. Before calling your trip a bust because something bad has happened, learn to deal with it. it may be harsh, but its true. To this day I winge about my jean jacket being stolen, and that was my first week in the hostel during this trip. I’ve had other things nicked along the way, but I will never forget that first thing or that first time something bad happened while backpacking. Ask any backpacker when they were in a sticky situation. There is a good chance that they remember.  Add that experience to your ‘stories-to-tell-at-the-bar’ list, and move on. And from this I use a phrase my mum taught me from a young age “If everything always worked out, then we wouldn’t have adventures.”

 

Next time: The people you meet: An introduction to a correlation between ages and the reasons they travel.

 

A month and a few places later…

I am nearing the end of my year visa (with still no option for Americans to extend for another year) and am in the throws of trying to find sure footing for the next step in my journey.

Over the last month I have had an onslaught of adventures, from finding how to live on no money in Brisbane, to having a job that pays for all travel and accommodation, to taking photos of surfers for a magazine/website, to finding my strengths as well as my weaknesses in the grand scheme of backpacking. (You know, like that one jacket I have no room for in my suitcase, but I love it too much to send home… Which may have been a good thing since winter is coming.)

At the moment, I’m in a little town of NSW called Armidale, in an area dubbed “New England”. The cool air and smell of decaying leaves that are the staple of my autumn in Colorado leave me just a little homesick for my rugged Rocky Mountains. The college town with bookshops and coffee shops sprinkled about bring me back to my university days. The people I meet constantly reminding me of the 6 degrees of separation, and how when you travel, you’re never really ‘solo’.

As a preview of the “next step”, I am getting my TEFL certificate (teaching English as a foreign language) and will get back into my niche of teaching and academia, but in a way that will let me work and travel the globe.

Backpackers survival guide: An introduction to the hosteling lifestyle and how to survive.

For your room:

Hostels are notorious for being the cheap and easy way to travel. If you want to spend a few extra bucks, you can have your own room, but if you’re on a budget be prepared to share a room with 3-25 other people. At first it’s a little daunting – sharing a room with a number of complete strangers – but as you backpack, it becomes more of a lifestyle. You meet people from all over the world, with different stories and ways of thinking. You may share a bunk with a kid from another country that offers you a place to stay should you ever be in his hometown, or someone traveling in the same direction as you. (Which, when traveling solo, is a nice change of pace.)

Now comes the part that takes the ‘getting used to’; the noise. If a hostel is known for being party-central and in the hip part of town, the chances of doing your early-to-bed-early-to-rise routine will be more difficult than a hostel that is a few blocks away. Whether it’s the cellphone alarm that goes off for 15 minutes at 5 in the morning, the squeaky bunk bed that groans with every movement, or the ‘frisky’ couple that decide to share a bunk in the multiple bed shared room, you will have noises that you wish didn’t exist. For this I recommend iPods or ear-plugs.

I have only ever had one thing stolen from me in all my experience at hostels; a jean jacket that I hung up to dry – on the “left behind/free” clothes rack in my room. Most of the time you can ask around to backpackers who have been in the hostel a while to see how bad the theft is. For the most part, it’s a good idea to keep your things together, and keep copies of important documents/phone numbers for credit cards in separate bags. If anything is stolen, you will have the important numbers to call into your consulate/bank and have the information to protect yourself from your passport being sold on the black market.

 

SURVIVAL TIP!

When you are staying in a shared dorm, most times people will keep all their stuff together in piles. This helps reduce any confusions about whose stuff is whose and if someone had something that ‘oozed’ over to your pile, its easier to tell it apart.

Also, just remember that when you’re sharing a room, people may not want to see you strutting around in your tighty-whities/teddy. You may want some comfy pajamas that double as lounge clothes.

 

Addition: A lot of hostel rooms have scarce power outlets. Having a power strip that turns one outlet into many will make it possible to charge your phone, computer &/ iPod at the same time.

 

Recommended tool-kit items:

Earplugs/iPod with playlist that you can sleep to.

Comfy pajamas that you don’t mind warring in front of people.

Power strip

 

For the kitchen:

In Hostels, most of the time there is a shared kitchen with your basic kitchen appliances, and a community fridge. The fridge works like that one in your break room at work; lable your food and others know whose it is. For the most part I haven’t had any trouble with food theft until a couple weeks ago, when someone in my big city hostel decided to go on a ‘picking spree’ and in addition to my bread and cracker missing, others had sandwich ham, milk (which is the most common thing ‘stolen’ from community fridges), and a few other things go walk-a-bout from our bags.

This led me to invest in a $5 bag that was created for this environment; a mesh bag with handles and window for labeling, and “o’s” on the zipper to attach a small combination lock that is conveniently attached to the bag. However, there are many styles and sizes you can get these in. If your going to be staying in a large hostel, or in a hostel with food theft problems, I highly recommend these.

Normally though, hostel kitchens are the heart of the backpacking social experience (that is, if the hostel doesn’t have a bar attached.) Here it is common for backpackers to meet up with others and create a community meal, each donating a part of a recipe or volunteering to cook/clean.

 

SURVIVAL TIP!

Do your dishes. Yeah, when you lived at home mum and dad took care of that. So what if your excuse is “I’m not good at it, it’ll take me ages”? Some hostels simply consider it bad karma, while others may keep key deposits. But in a community kitchen, the general rule is ‘if you use it, you wash it’.

 

Recommended Tool-Kit items:

Sharpie

Locking , mesh kitchen storage bag

 

 

For the bathroom:

On the rare occasion you will have ensuite bathrooms, but the majority of the time its large communal bathrooms with a few shower stalls. I would recommend getting a pair of plastic flip-flops/sandals to use as shower shoes, and have a bag that you can dedicate to shower stuff (Soap, shampoo, razors etc.)

 

SURVIVAL TIP!

If you’re at the hostel for a couple days, you can figure out the bathroom traffic, and go for your shower when you don’t have to wait. Usually showering in the morning has less traffic, since most people are either sleeping, or getting ready to check out. Them being busy means you get that favorite stall.

 

Recommended Tool-Kit items:

Canvas bag/reusable shopping bag for ‘shower bag’

Plastic shoes.

Small town charm

The pub, which has a rich history in the community, is located at the main (and only) intersection in town.
Built in the 1920’s, it had undergone a few renovations because of fires and remodeling, revealing a spooky set-up. A room under the stairs existed since the building was rebuilt after a fire in the 1930’s, with no way in or out. Before tv and automobiles were in the area. During the latest renovation, that room was opened, as it had no way in or out, (it was effectively dead space) and inside was a stool, and a black and white tv.

This, and other stories come from Trappa, the regular to the bar with his ‘spot’ along the counter, and knowledge of everything in the town. With a curly beard, age sunk cheeks, and blind out of his drooping left eye, he points at things around the bar, pictures, carvings, and sketches, and delves into their history. After all, he is the one who did the renovations.

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Within a few weeks of being here, Trapper was sitting at the bar and said how he had two Koalas, a mama and baby, in the trees by his shed. (Just across the a street from the pub.) He called his wife to confirm they were still there. Within 5 minutes, I am fighting the approaching dusk to get as many photos of the koalas I can.

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Another thing that I have been fortunate to learn from trapper was the histories about his father in law, a lieutenant in the royal Australian air force in WWII. The war hero J.H. Dixon had been shot down, not once, but three times, over both land and ocean. The day after telling me of the successful missions (and realizing my weakness for WWII history) he brought in a case of old photographs and memorabilia from Dixon’s flying days.  One of the items was in old map. While folded neatly and tucked into its plastic sleave, it looked like any other map, roads and cities plotted against the yellowing medium. But it wasn’t paper. The map was a silk scarf used by pilots who, if shot down, could use the maps for navigation, and conveniently, warmth.

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The locals have been very generous with offering to show me around. From geological forms, to taking me to get photos of cattle being mustered, to giving me contacts for the quicksilver pro, the people here are as excited to show me the ‘real Australia’ as I am to see it.

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Gumtree Adventure

Before I get into this article, I am going to reiterate what we’ve all heard a million times… Don’t trust what you find on craigslist/gumtree/online advertising.  There are, on occasion, ads when job or roommate appear too good to be true, and like my experience, were.

I was in my room in Sydney when I found the farm job. Sheep, horses, a bit of yard work, and mostly taking care of a couple of kids. Perfect. Just what I needed.

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I emailed the owner of the add, not expecting a reply for a couple days, as it was 1 am Sydney time. By 3 am my tablet is chirping of a new email, and my phone buzzed at 7 with a text message. This lady, who I will refer to as J, was in desperate need of help. With a bit of conversing through text message, we arranged for a phone interview with the father, Ill call him M, and I was to video chat that night with J.

Here’s the short sweet nitty gritty of that week; J was really nice at first, before I got on the bus to go to their farm. Once on the bus, the text messages became short abrupt and had an air of aggressive authority.  This started the little alarm bells in my head. I figured it was just travelers fatigue and I would asses everything at face value, when I was there face-to-face.

My bus came in late, so my first few moments with the family were just before bed, and I would start the next morning. But N, the other nanny and my saving grace through that week, had shown me to my room, and started giving me tips to how to be comfortable there.

The next morning I found out that the race horses they breed are not at that farm, but at a different farm 2 hours away. Ok. I can live with that.  But when I had asked about internet I received the reply that yes, she did say there was internet in the interview, but she doesn’t let the nannies use it. (As we were so far away from a city, my phone was on roaming and I burned through my prepaid plan sending the occasional email.) I figure its good to get away from my dependence on technology and as I was to work from sun up- to sun down, I would be a bit busy for it anyways. So I go in search of breakfast.

Simply asking where the toaster was led to a three man hunt through the kitchen. M, N and I search through the cupboards and shelves for the toaster. J, who had been in a mood all morning, rushes past stating, authoritatively, ‘Three people to look for a toaster. That is unacceptable!’ I brushed it off as a joke as M and N smirk at each other.

By the afternoon I realized she wasn’t joking, that in fact, she ran a ‘tight ship’ but would keep forgetting to give me schedule.  By the end of the day, I was exhausted from looking after the boys who, according to J, were only acting up because I was new to the house. By that evening, the boys had ganged up on the other nanny, and the older boy became violent, calling slurs and punching however he could in a not-playful way. Upon J’s assessment of the situation, she says in a calmly, nearly everyday tone, ‘alright boys, you’ve had enough down here, lets go upstairs for a bath.’ The alarm belles turned to sirens.

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Over the week it progressed to fending off accusations from J, and meeting the previous nannies that had taken refuge at the neighbors house.  The next night, N and I had made a pact that if one of us leave, the other would follow shortly after, since the other became the sounding board for events we otherwise wouldn’t have stood for.  Most of the time, J separated herself from the rest of the family by way of locking herself in her office.

On the day I would finish my first week, N and I were told by M that it would be our day off and that we could sleep in, since the afternoon would consist of going into Melbourne for the races, which one of their horses were running.

When I had gone upstairs, J had cornered me in the kitchen and had asked why I was late helping get the boys ready. I told her, with it being the weekend and having the day off I assumed we could sleep in. Fire blazed in her eyes as she roared ‘ we do NOT assume here. I never said you could have the day off.” I was stunned, staring disbelieving at her, that the 6 day week that we were promised was also a lie. M, being just in the next room swooped in, and came to my defense, “I’m the one who said it”.  At that she turned on M, and in front of the two boys started yelling how M always sided with the nannies, and never supports or defends her.  His face looked like she had slapped him. “I do. I am simply telling you what I told them.” With a brief scold to each of us, she asks ‘you wouldn’t be leaving for the races until 10, did you expect me to HAVE to spend that time with the boys? It doesn’t make sense.” My only thought was, what mother wouldn’t want to spend a couple hours with her own children.

I clean when I get flustered. I find things to keep my mind occupied, and after having just finished washing the dishes, I figured that I would go ahead and dry them as something to continue this. From behind me, J grabs the towel from my hands, replacing it with an exercise sheet for the boys, who had been sent out to their trampoline.  She leaned in, her nose inches from mine, and spat “We. Do. NOT. Dry. Dishes.”

I stepped back throwing up my hands in surrender, ‘Okay, okay.’

Then she switched to a matter-of-fact tone ‘We have had nannies here that have fit like a glove.  If you cannot respect our rules then we can get someone else. We had plenty of applicants, if you don’t fit here then we can get one of them.’

Then I heard N, with her soft patient voice suggest ‘maybe she didn’t know.’ And the fire was back in J’s eyes.

“You,” she sneered, pointing at N’s nose, “are on the next bus back to Melbourne.”

“I was just – “

“You and I don’t fit. You don’t fit. You’re gone.” She groaned it as though she were disciplining a child who had lied or stolen.

“[J], why are you talking to me like a child? I’m just trying to have a conversation.”

“You. Are. Gone. You’re only here to plant the trees. Whic-”

“That wasn’t the job I applied for.” N, still calm, replied.

“Because you cant handle the boys. One little thing happens and you lock yourself in your room.“ referring to when the boys attacked her.

Now, here’s a bit of back story…  N, who is British, beautiful and poised, has many more qualifications than I for Nanning. More experience, more knowledge, and a better handle on the boys. In the week of having the boys kicking me, and not listen, (with the simple reply from J ‘they just aren’t used to you yet’), N was my rock, my support who was able to tell the boys to listen to me.

J had shoved N’s sholder amongst her yelling and at that moment I knew that I wasn’t going to stay.

Pack your bags. YOU. ARE. GONE!”

I was a spectator with M, standing, stunned, in the living room as the scene unfolded before us. As if disconnected from reality. Watching a theater performance that was beyond reality. I was on autopilot, swiveled my head to face M, and with the realization of the situation choking my voice into a whisper, the words came out, “I cant stay either.”

“No,” he shook his head in defeat, “You cant.” He looked up at J for a moment, her arms flailing now as she yelled at a still collected N. “…I understand.”

N and I made our way to Melbourne, and spent a few days together traveling through the city.

N, (You know who you are,) I want to thank you for everything. For listening, for the cups of tea when I about pulled my hair out, and the amazing time in Melbourne when we were getting our footing again.

My advice; be warned about people desperate for workers, there may be a reason they cant hold onto them. Ask questions, and be wary when your driving their children around, but never ask to see your license or passport.

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5 Hostel Report; Aquarius Backpackers

Aquarius Backpackers,
Located a 10 min bus ride outside of surfers, the quiet hostel provides a relaxing atmosphere.

1. Customer Service
****
The owner prides herself in customer service, and the staff do everything they can to accommodate. (Not going to go to far into this because I worked here. Don’t want to be biased.)

2. “At home” Feel
****
More restricted on cleanliness reasons, but the weekly sausage sizzle and pool competition help pull people out of their room to meet others. The manager also makes a point to keep everyone safe and comfortable.

3. Night Life
***
Further from surfers, going to town usually means a cab home. While its not too expensive (~$20), going to town twice a week on the big nights out can add up.

4. Cleanliness
*****
Very clean. (While this may be biased, as I was one of the people cleaning it for a short time, I can attest to the high level of clean that the manager sets as a standard.) Everything is washed, swept, mopped multiple times a day. Everything is freshly painted, there’s a plasma TV on the wall, surround sound, and a really nice pool.

5. Location
***
Better located for shopping than night life, its just down the street from Australia fair, one of the largest shopping centers in the region. Its a short walk to a small park, and neighboring cafes have sidewalk seating (whose atmosphere I have always loved).

Aquarius Backpackers
Overall
**** $$$
07 5527 1300

Hosteling the Gold Coast – Adventures of my Gapyear

After nearly 2 weeks of staying with my friend, it was time to continue onto the adventures I had set out for.

I made my way the furthest south in Australia I have been yet, to the Gold Coast. Right along the beaches of Surfers Paradise there is a little hostel called Surf n Sun. A minute walk to the beach, and staffed with a fun and lively crowd, this hostel is a must for a beach vacation. They are located on the north end of the beach, and a 15 minute walk to the heart of surfers paradise, going to the clubs and bars is done nightly as group. 

The area is lush and the cities sky scrapers remind me of Miami Beach, Florida…. Except with a smaller city feel and without the crime. When I arrived, I prepaired for crowded beaches, and the long hunt for beach space to lay out and soak up some nice tropical rays. I brace myself as I approach the beach, expecting the crowds of Miami, or Waikiki, being a world renowned beach. Instead, the quiet beach offered enough space to be secluded from neighboring beach goers, and the sand is so fine it squeaks when you shuffle along the white powder.

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There is something for everyone; museums, mini golf, clubs, pubs, adventure companies, and easy transportation access to surrounding attractions.

If planning your trip to the area, be sure to check out the night markets (Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, 7-10 PM.)

Whale watching, which runs daily, is another wonderful use of your time on the gold coast. A variety of  outfits exist at different prices, but remember, you get what you pay for, and paying a budget price may mean getting the small boat. (Hope you don’t get sea sick.) The nicer, larger boats are usually upwards of $75 and have options to extend to a full day doing alternate activities. You would want to try going in late winter, early spring (July – October) when the whales are migrating and calfing. When I went out, a young calf was learning how to breech (throw its body out of the water).

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After my stay at Surf n Sun, I found a job at Aquarius Backpackers, just north of Surfers paradise.  Right across from one of the major shopping centers in the area,  the distance from the beach doesn’t stop Aquarius from offering just as much.

Throughout Surfers Paradise, many backpacking hostels get together on Wednesday and Saturday nights for a Big Night Out. At $30, free entry into multiple clubs and a free drink at each, the BNO hosts, nearly a thousand backpackers each month. 

Work in surfers paradise is plentiful if you’re not picky in what you do. The area thrives on tourists and backpackers, and the staff often transition as much as the clientele. If looking for something specific, you should look into specific jobs before you arrive.

Taking a nice day off, I made my way to the strip of beach known as the Pacific Parade in Currumbin, a small seaside town about a hour bus ride south of the gold coast. The town hosts an art walk every year, displaying sculptures from around the world. It doesn’t cost anything to view the art, but you can donate in various ways at the small information booths setup along the walk.

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Another thing to do in the town is climb the rock beside the lifesaving and surf club and look out over the ocean and to surfers paradise skyline on the horizon.  From here, the most amazing views are accompanied by amazing surfers (on a good day) and while sitting on the beach, took notice of a man with his surf board tearing up the waves. Sadly, I didn’t get his name, and the skill he had would not be done justice by my words. Thankfully, I had my camera. (Check out the photos at Flickr.com/photos/kikilathrop)

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