Tag Archives: Anthropology

Kanra; The hidden gem of Gunma

Kanra:

The area holds onto its history as the safe-haven for samurai after they were ‘disbanded’. Coming from Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto, they were able to use the rural environment to continue on with their horses and arts, which has made the area very rich for authenticity.To this day, the area embraces its martial arts of Judo, Kyudo (archery), Kendo (staff fighting) and Kendu (sword).

About a 30 minute bike ride from Tomioka is the small town of Kanra. Shougun (a Samurai chief), had lived in the small town, and his old house is marked with a plaque outside the front gate.  In the spring, during cherry blossom season, there is the Kanra samurai parade. This free event is held along the main road, flanked by cherry blossoms, and contains the authentic view of the samurai. Participants will dress to-the-nines in their samurai garb, women will dawn kimonos and paint their faces, and they will take to the cherry blossom lined road.

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Cherry blossom trees line the sidewalk in Kanra.

Kanra also houses many temples, shrines and gardens that are not to be missed. When my co-worker brought me into the small town, our first stop was a large temple that we saw as we entered the town. Hiking upto the building, we ventured up an over gown path to the top of the mountain behind the temple. Capped with a small seating area, stage and a few tree’s lining a meadow, the lush overlook provided a wonderful view of the surrounding towns and mountains.

DSC_2768A sample of the view.

Our next stop was the gardens in the center of Kanra. The 300 yen ($3) entry price is well worth it to see the rolling green hills, and lounge pond side to large Koi fish. In the adjacent museum that shows what the Samurai houses used to look like, you can buy a bag of Koi food for 100 yen ($1). I highly recommend doing this.

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The gardens in Kanra.

Wondering around the garden, we came across the local Kyudo club in their practice. On the other side of the garden from the museum is an archery range, which at the time was filled with archers dressed in traditional clothing, practicing their technique.

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Kyudo, unlike western archery, draws the arrow behind the head to sight down the arrow shaft.

After our time in the garden, we went in search of the next “must do” on the list. Riding down side streets and over hills, we came to a small temple at a bend of one of the side streets. It looked much like the many other temples I had seen, and I nearly rode past until I noticed my co-worker had stopped and was parking their bike. It is only after I climbed the first set of stairs to the temple that I realized it is very much different. The old, worn wood door held a wooden fish sign like a welcome plaque, and the other side of the doorway was housed a trash-can type vessel stocked with walking-sticks of various sizes. Equiped with a walking stick and sense of adventure, we started up the thin overgrown path up the mountain behind the temple, and into the bamboo forest. When we had reached the top, what little breath was left from my hike up was taken away at the sight of the face carved into the mountain side. This shrine, which locally isn’t well known,  is littered with smaller statues and carvings along the path.

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The door-hanging fish, the face in the mountain, and the bamboo forest.

In front of the face, there is a carved creatures head that protrudes from the ground by about a meter, and is about a meter and a half in length. and a turtle of about equal size to the right of the statue, that would be otherwise unseen by the amount of growth that’s growing the rock.

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The creature

Tomioka Silk Mill; The UNESCO world heritage site

(Written for The Heritage Travels)

Tomioka Silk Mill, the latest UNESCO world heritage site in Japan, sits along the river in the south of Tomioka. When I sit at my desk, I can see the tall chimney from my window and with summer break, why not? It was only a few blocks away.

I loaded up my bike basket with my camera and a bottle of water, and rode in the direction of the mill. I could tell when I reached it, since the crowds became impassable. On my first pass the line to get in was building, and for lack of bike parking, I rushed to store the bike nearby and join the cue. The small admission fee (500 Yen for adults, 250 Yen for university and high school students, 100 yen elementary and junior high students, and 1 child/disability with 1 accompanying free,) goes to the preservation and restoration of the buildings.

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Constructed in 1871, the long buildings still house some of the equipment, and displays some of the machinery that was lesser used. While free Japanese tours are offered hourly, a self guided audio tour in English can be accessed via smart phone, using the QR code provided at the entrance. (Other languages offered include; Japanese, Italian, Chinese and Korean.) They also provide English maps upon entry, with the quarky historical facts such as the delayed employment to initially run the mill because there were French workers and their red wine was mistaken for blood. (I wouldn’t want to work with people who drink blood either.)

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The mill had shut down in 1987 after being in Operation for 115 years. With the loss of work in the area, Tomioka went from a factory town, to a sleepy mountain town until 2005, when the buildings were designated as a National Historic site, which increased the tourism in the area, giving the town new life. Two years later in 2007 the site was picked up by UNESCO as a world heritage site.

 

Written by Kiki Lathrop

Kiki is a writer, photographer and archaeologist from Colorado. Growing up on a sailboat in the Caribbean, she was introduced to different cultures early, and it fueled her passion to experience the world first hand. Over a year has passed since she set out a solo female traveler, only to discover that we in the travel community are never alone. You can read up on her stories and adventures at her website.

Please check out Kiki’s website, travelgypsea.wordpress.com, for more inspirational and educational posts!

 

A little Knotty: The Ethnography of a Sailor

Rafting at sunset

There are multiple sub cultures, just like on land you can have mountain men, and hermits, spanning to high rise condos and mansions. This is the narrower band of culture that I was more deeply immersed in, with homeschooling and family life, and the broader scope of general boating social dynamics.

Sitting at anchor, using the sailing dinghy to get to and from shore, fishing for your dinner and burning candles for light.

Tied to the dock, with the utilities to provide modern comforts, and the car parked in the lot to go down to the shop for fresh veggies for dinner.

Transportation

One of the first questions I get about living on a boat is  “How did you get around without a car?” When living in a marine orientated city, there are many shops and conveyances very close to the water. In this sense the family car is the dinghy.

Shuttling to shore, and walking to your destination, provide an active and healthy lifestyle in addition to saving on petrol costs.  You are also more likely to buy things you need, and cut out junk food and inconsequential items that are not ‘worth’ the effort of hauling back to the boat. Quite frequently, people will have a bike, or small moped, that can be shuttled to shore in the dinghy to use.  In some instances, live-aboards who maintain port at a dock will choose to maintain the comfort of a vehicle for longer trips, and the boat being at dock is for longer term living.

Food and Diet

When living in the middle of the ocean your main sources of food would probably what fish you caught, and the edible seaweeds that you could harvest.  This style of living for long derations, and especially not planned, is rare. The common approach to long term voyages includes detailed planning of routes, studying weather patterns, and stocking up on rations before leaving port.

Before leaving for the Bahamas for 6months, I remember going to the store with my family. We had sat down and planned out what we would need to make each meal, then multiplied it by how many days we would eat that meal and multiplied that to how many meals we would need to ration the whole journey. Leaving out produce and other perishable items that we would buy in the islands, we still had 5 full carts of food to prepare for the journey. We had such a large number of items, they could not be rung up in the same transaction at the register.

Community Structure

The sailing community has three main niches; Marina, the hard (boatyard), and anchor/moored.

The Marina is considered the most social of the three niches. Here the equivalent of a neighborhood is slips along the pier. There is the ‘neighbor dynamic’; The neighbor that offers to help with some maintenance, ‘neighborhood watch’ becomes ‘marina watch’, and there are the conflict neighbors ( e.g. leaving lights on, music too loud, ext.). Marina offices usually provide a central hub to the social dynamic. If the office facilities are highly restricted and hard to access, there will be less interaction in these areas, where as a marina that provides larger free space to its guests will draw more people into the social setting. This would be the equivalent of the “city” of the boater world.
While on the hard, boaters are usually working on their boat, whether its basic maintenance or extreme repairs/renovations. The people that are in this working environment tend to have more of a ‘business’ scene, trying to get the job on their boat done.  The social dynamic of strangers in this environment is more of a friendly passing in the work place. Here it is assumed that people at the yard are doing some form of maintenance, or preparing for storm seasons.   The work yard would be most closely related to the suburb; people going about their business with some interaction, though there is ‘personal space’ associated with the area around the boat in addition to the boat itself. (Leaving a drill under your boat could be seen as the equivalent of leaving your lawn mower on your front lawn, it is assumed that the lawn mower, or in this case, drill, is associated with the property that it shares a space with.)

The ‘rural’ form of living would be at anchor or at mooring. When living with such large amounts of space between boats, interaction is limited. The most common forms of social interaction are particular social events (e.g. dock party on shore, meeting at a boat for cocktails), or spontaneous interactions (e.g. meeting at the dinghy dock en-route to the store).

Education

Families living on boats are often home schooled, allowing for mobility and convenience. With the diverse offering of education programs, there are  self guided work books, satellite ‘Skype-in’ class sessions, and other correspondence curriculum establish that can provide your standard education requirements. However, when living on a boat, there are the opportunities to study biology by dissecting a fish and taking the time to learn the organs, maritime history is common around coastal regions, and  (with homeschooling in general) individual interests can be developed by incorporating them with school work. (Like astronomy? write a paper on how Columbus used stars to navigate. Like electronics and chemistry? Perform an experiment about the conductive properties of salt water.)

The other education alternative presented was enrollment during the school year, leaving summers and holidays to travel. Restricting time allowances for travel usually is associated with leaving the boat at dock for longer periods of time and in many cases results in the family moving back onto land before much traveling takes place.

Waste/toilet

As you can imagine, I’m hitting all of what I think are the no-brainer parts of living on a boat, when a girl I’m talking to asks “this may be gross, but what did you do about going to the bathroom?” I had forgotten all about that naturally human action that is dealt with differently in this living environment.

On a boat the bathrooms are small, usually just large enough to accommodate a small shower and the head (toilet). The toilets are small, and manually flushed by a pump. Once ‘flushed’, the waste goes to a “holding tank” which is emptied by a pump at the dock. The other method of flushing is an Electisan which works like a septic tank, treating the waste for deposit into the ocean. Sink and shower drains have through halls into the water, or into the bildge (the open area under the floor of the boat which usually has a small amount of water) and is pumped out into the ocean.

Other trash should be stored for disposal on land, and organic matter can be disbursed out in the ocean to decompose.