Tag Archives: manyara

Lions and Leopards and Giraffe, Oh My!

Hey Everyone! Sorry for the delayed post! (You’ll understand by the 3rd paragraph.) I will have an aditional post soon.

Leaving Mto Wa Mbu we drove past lake manyara National Park and stopped at an overlook of the lake and valley below. The steep slopes of the mountains, homing Lake Manyara’s tree climbing lions, make the beautiful greenery feel sinister. Photos were taken, hagglers dodged, and back into the safari vehicle to continue our adventure.

We stopped for a pit stop at a large art market, where we could keep our haggling skills tuned, and I completed most of my Christmas shopping. I would like to take the opportunity to give a shout out to one of our comrades, Doug, who I found in amongst the wooden carved hippopotamuses. I comment on his good find, and the musical-rolodex talent that he is, asks me if I ever heard the Christmas song “I want a Hippopotamus for Christmas”?

This is one of my FAVOURITE songs… I remember being a kid hanging out with my grandmother in Florida and she gave me a bright green hippo stuffed animal, taught me that song (she loved Sherley Temple… and Giraffes, more on that later.)

We break into song there in the middle of the store. He had got his wife a hippopotamus for Christmas, which I find so stinkin’ sweet. (Of course putting this into a post I am going to wait to put this on the blog until AFTER Christmas.)

We load back up into the safari vehicles (a few souvenirs and charismas presents heavier) and continue through to Ngorongoro Conservation area. At the large gateway to the area we stop to confirm our tour add on of the hot air balloon over the Serengeti. Then we set off into the wilderness. Fun Tip: the Tinga Tinga art style is characteristic of East Africa/Tanzania. You can get a small painting and they will take them off the frames for you and roll them up so that they can be transported home.

The dry season. The bumpy roads during the dry season….. This is where I HIGHLY recommend using a mask/buff because of how dusty it got inside the car. One of my carmates was recovering from a cough, and I’m sure that the dust didn’t help at all. I had a buff on my face, one over my camera and lens, built into my sun shirt, there was a lot of dust protection and it still made an issue.

Me in my fishing shirt that has SPF and a built in Buff

As someone who gets car sick, this was the worst trip to forget Dramamine or ginger pills. but I did, so I want to give another MASSIVE shout out to all the car buddies, for allowing us carsick people to sit further up. I promise for future travel companions, I have learned my lesson and have an emergency stash already in my travel case.

We pass Maasai villages with tall wooden fences to keep out the animals higher up the food chain. Dry short grass in all directions seemed desolate. Hamdami, our guide, told us that during the wet season that the area is known for the great migration with thousands of animals, especially wildebeest, and the lions would come to hunt.

Up the crater bank through fog and vines that made me think we were transporting to another world. If Pandorans walked out of the brush, and we were transported to the floating mountains from Avatar, I wouldn’t have been surprised. At the top of the crater we stop for a quick photo op at the overlook. We would be traveling into the crater and camping along the rim a few days later. We traveled down the oposite side, back into the plains.

This is the area that gives the Serengeti its meaning of “the endless plain”, there is a quick reststop that has everything that an anthropology nerd like myself would want. The monument in the front supports 2 GIANT early hominid skulls. The area made famous in the anthropology world when Mary and Louis Leaky discovered Homo halibus, showing that our earliest anscestors were in the area, and by the Laetoli Footprints which proved bipedalism (that we walk upright). Other notable finds include Zinjanthropus boisei, aka Austrolopithicus boisei. From the monument you can see in the distance the Mary Leaky museum. The museum hosts current archaeological excavation and research, and has a replica of the laitoli footprints which are 3.7 million years old. They had to be reburied to help preserve them, hints why they have a replica. We weren’t able to stop at the museum, but its definitely on my list for next time.

This monument area also has the main gate for the Serengeti and national park sign. We were officially in the Serengeti!

The miles of dust-blown washboard road into the vast wilderness with little life habitating the landscape, and the occational wildabeast skull that had been drug around by the animals at night, remind me that here I am bottom of the food chain. Our guide reminded us that this open plane of dry grasses was lush and teeming with life during the rainy season, beign a peak place on the ‘Great Migration’. Thousands of wildabeast travel through, grazing and dropping calves as they go.

Once in the park we stopped at the rest station/shop/picnic area for lunch. The walkway from the parkinglot of safari vehicles looked much like you would see in most of the national parks around the US. Well kept, nice landscaping with flowers beside the paths to the picnic area. The small hiking path with yellow cation tape that told passers by to ‘Keep out’ in multiple languages seemed no different than a the park tennants doing maitnance behind the building for the bathroom. I stood at the caution tape and tried to see what people were gawking at as they passed. Thats when our guide points up the path to the top of a rock, only about 30 feet (10m) away. I would have missed the Lion if it wasn’t that the rock was… well… Fluffy. And to seperate the hundreds of tourists from the apex preditor – a caution tape. Mental Note: REALLY pay attention to signs. They are NOT a suggestion.

By the end of the fist day in the Serengeti we had seen 4 of the ‘Big 5’. This is aparently rare for the serengeti, especially in the dry season. The Lion were plentiful, and even lounging in one of the trees with a whole mess of cubs. The one at the picnic area was the most surprising though.

A Black Rino walked away from us some distance away. At this point we asked our drivers about the Rino that only has 2 of its species left. Those are the Northern White Rino, are under full-time armmed guard, and by definition extinct since the last two are female. Needless to say, they dont get tourists out to visit them in an effort to protect their location from pochers. The Black Rino is not too much better off with only 6,000 left.

The Elephant we didnt see as much until we were deep into the serengeti. There were yearlings out wondering about and keeping up with mum as they walked determined to some unknown location.

Water Buffalo were a little more elusive, and a heard had walked passed us on our way out of the Ngorongoro Crater area.

4 of the 5, all that was missing was the leopard.

The Big 5 was a rating system that was created by hunters as the 5 most deadly that were more likely to kill you than you to kill them. Our guides being more into conservation told us about some other “5’s”; the Ugly 5 – Hyena, Warthog, Vulture, Wildabeast, and Marabou Stork. Thats when Valance, our driver, and we decided to start coming up with a ‘pretty 5’; The DikDik, Geraffe, Hippo, Zebra, Crowned Crane… Of course these five kept changing throughout the trip since there are a LOT of cute animals in the Serengeti.

The first day we also got lucky enough to see A cheetah with its 2 cubs practically posing for us!

Once we hit a certain point in the serengeti, the sun was dropping low and we had to get to camp. Valance picked up some speed, and we watched as the sun kissed the horizon turning the sky a firey pink that looked like something out of Lion King.

Our Crew had been cooking an AMAZING dinner, and our mess hall at the camp had wire fencing over the windows, It also had some decent space from the camp cook area, the bathrooms and the tent area, miking almost a square, with the cars pulling in between the tents and the bathrooms.

After dinner and some journaling it was time for bed before the big Balloon Ride the next morning with Serengeti Balloon Safaris. I grabbed my headlight and shined it around before venturing in any direction before leaving the safety of a building or my tent. If you see eyes and they are yellow, ehhh could be dangerous, if they are red… THEY ARE Dangerous. Remember this for next time…

Next time…

Wakign up early to a puddle of lions on the way to the hot air balloon, Complete the “Big 5” and my bathroom adventure where I saw eyes.

Where the Wild Things Roam: Lake Manyara

The morning started with the sense of adventure. All my camping gear that had been in my check on was redistributed on, in and around my backpack, a blue rain cover providing a small amount of protection from the dust we were told we would be encountering on the way.

Checking out of the Outpost Lodge, our group convened in the small parking lot where two pop-top safari vehicles waited. Our drivers Valance and George greeted us and helped us load up. We split into two groups and made a quick supply run.

The local grocery had everything we could need for road-trip snacks and we loaded up with water. We were going to be camping and not able to access a lot of water for 5 days, and I figured that my own water amount was about 2 liters a day, and grabbed 3 – 2 liter jugs. My estimate was generous, and I didn’t get into the 3rd jug, but in 20/20 hindsight and a background in search and rescue, I appreciated having it to offer if anyone needed a water bottle refill towards the end of the trip.

Pro Tip: a week or so before traveling try to gauge how much water you drink normally, and then look at how much you drink the first couple days in East Africa. After being there a couple days you should get a good idea of how much water you will need to plan on.

Before setting off from the store, one of my travel companions tried the ATM to get some cash before leaving the city. The ATM ate her card. A few minutes of calling the 1-800 numbers in the states and the assistance of Hamdami in calling the bank of the ATM, and it was worked out that she would be able to pick up her card when we return to Arusha after the safari part of the trip.

In the village of Mto Wa Mbu we visited a local art co-op, filled with a few artistic styles, and a banana plantation. Here we were treated to a lovely local meal with a diverse spread of flavours and options.

The first day of the trip we went right to Lake Manyara National Park. The entrance way was mesmerising, instantly cueing the Jurrasic Park Theme to come to mind. A magnificent archway supporting two waterfalls.

Just outside Mto Wa Mbu is Lake Manyara. Home of tree climbing lions. Though we didn’t see lions on this portion of safari, we did get an amazing experience with some of the elephants, who walked right up to, and around, our Safari vehicles.

The myriad of wildlife of the park was a fantastic kickoff to inland Tanzania. The baboons, water buffalo, and a particularly angry Zebra who had it out for a specific group of impala, gave the area a vibrant personality that, when looking back, was so unique. Neither Serengeti nor Ngorongoro Crater, yet somehow still with a sense of familiarity between the two.

While we would be traveling through the park, our supply car would beat us to the campsite and begin setup and cooking. By the time we roll in, dusty and shaken by the bouncy dirt roads, we had a little down time to freshen up and meet at the mess area for dinner.

The Twiga Campsite is a lush, secure, campground within Mto Wa Mbu. Our tents, definitely larger than some of the other groups, were spacious and we could even stand up in them. Not quite ‘glamping’, but to my outdoor experience, not ‘roughing it’ either. I would say this was a very accommodating camping experience for anyone who hasn’t been camping before, or wants the camping trip style, but the tents already set up for them ‘vacation style’. A cold shower and frequent power outages that hit the small camps added to the sense of adventure.

The camp dinners were delicious 3 course meals. Shout out to Saranne, whose birthday it was and the camp crew came out singing a birthday song, equipped with cake, unphased by the power cutting part way through their melody. Power came back, celebrations continued, and it was a wonderful night at the campground.

Before bed I spent some time in the mess area charging my camera gear and batteries. My Nikon D7000 and D500 take the same kind of battery, so having just a couple extra made it easy to switch out. I highly recommend a multi port USB charger for the safari cars, and a usb charger for all electronics, including camera batteries.

The quiet of the camp in the evening and in the early morning was magical. Brushing my teeth I would stop, wide-eyed, realizing the far off sounds of lions roaring and hyenas chattering. This… the sounds, the feeling, of being surrounded by wild. This is what I came for.

Next time….

We journey deeper into the heart of Tanzania, passing through the Ngorongoro Crater conservation area and into Serengeti National Park.

If your interested in seeing some of the posts from one of my guides? Valence has an instagram! his adventures can be followed at @vah_ley_tz

The cool kids!